Tactical (Haptic Fabric) by Sofie Christina Di Bartolomeo
2018 - 2019, Platinum A' Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design Award Winner
Tactical is inspired by the haptic sensations. The attention to the tactile aspects is of great importance in many fields of design. But when talking about fabrics, especially in the fashion field, tactility is often taken for granted or it is related to the type of material used but it is never the main focus. Therefore the aim for the creation of this textile was to highlight the tactile aspect, by manipulating the screen-printing technique, that is mostly used to create flat surfaces.
A haptic textile, where the design of the modular pattern is made by groups of small pearls that enlarge and shrink on the surface. This formula creates a three-dimensional effect on the fabric where some zones will be extremely dense, while other completely empty. The strong tactile expression is emphasized by the contrast between the very smooth and shiny textile base, and its slightly rubbery and opaque applied pattern.
Design Challenges
The biggest challenge was to create a tactile expression in terms of texture and volume through the screen-printing, that is more often related to flat surfaces with a strong visual expression. Therefore I had to design a whole new system to realize the screen. Furthermore, it was not easy to imagine how a pattern or a paste would react in combination with a certain material or motif, without many experimentations. Another difficulty was that almost every step was based on manual abilities.
Production Technology
The pattern of the surface is realized through a parametric 3D software to manipulate and create fading effects on the final surface. To maximize the amount of the coating mixture that can be applied to the fabric, a special screen printing technique has been developed. Once the pattern is transferred on the fabric, it is fixated in the oven where the applied paste starts a small growing process that will give the three-dimensional effect to the final surface.
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