Traces (Womenswear Collection) by RONG ZHANG
2017 - 2018, Platinum A' Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Award Winner
The ideology is that when you erase the traces, you destroy beauty. Luck and Misfortune comes in turn. The things you experienced, no matter good or bad, they are part of your body. Inspirations come from designer's stressful high school examination memories. Emotions such as oppressive, massive and repetitive inspire to explore themes such as the exam papers, Chinese youth uniforms, Victorian costume details, Mai 68 student movement.
The collection shows intricately crafted, multi-layered garments and explorations into digital printing, digital embroidery and elastic material weaving, and creates thought-provoking silhouettes through a conscious layering textiles to represent the constraint of the Chinese examinations. The collection's concept goes against the over-simplified garments in mass production, and brings back the craftsmanship with the contemporary aesthetic.
Design Challenges
The hard part is how to alive the vintage garment details and make it contemporary. I experiment with traditional waving technique, but transforming the 3D waving fabric into 2D digital printing. Moreover, experimenting digital embroidery on mesh fabric is a challenge, since find the harmony between right threads and mesh fabric need attempts. It is important to know the specialty of different thread types on stretch or non-stretch.
Production Technology
Couture tailoring technique, Digital Printing, Digital embroidery, Hand Waving Technique with Elastic bands and Bias Fabric Manipulation. Starting by waving colorful elastic bands on the netting fabric, and transformed the 3D waving fabric into 2D digital printing. Moving on, Rong used digital printing images to develop new shapes and different fabric manipulation like the layering organza, the pearling edge georgette.
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